Saturday, June 25, 2011

Rome Again 2011

We came back to Rome for a few days after visiting the Middle East. The city really speaks volumes – behind every nook and cranny is grandeur, history and culture and we really appreciated it even more on our second go around.

Our last ‘must-see’ left on our list – the Sistine Chapel. We knew it is part of a collection of galleries and rooms but were amazed by the variety of art contained therein. We certainly did not expect to find Egyptian mummies and other non-religious artifacts. Being totally unprepared for what the Vatican Museums had to offer, we just followed the flow of people and signs, stopping along the way to admire all that we saw. Our last stop, of course, was the Sistine Chapel. With our necks craned at the ceiling we took time to appreciate the work by Michelangelo as well as the works by other artists in the room.

On our way out of the Vatican Museums, I was delighted to see that there was an exhibition of the famous Faberge Easter Eggs. They are quite exquisite and detailed and it was certainly a highlight for me to see this small part of the collection. For some reason it conjured up memories of Dr. Zhivago, a favourite movie of mine.

Part of our plan was to leave the hustle and bustle of Rome behind and take a couple day trips into the countryside. It just looks so inviting when flying over it all.

Our first trip was to Frascati, a little hamlet 20 km south east of Rome. We decided to take a bus to get there so we could enjoy the sights of the countryside along the way. It took about 25 minutes to reach our destination, which we timed since we weren’t exactly sure which stop would be ours. But we knew instantly when we had arrived as the bus stopped in a small town square with Villa Aldobrandini looking down on us from atop a hill.

The area is renown for its Villas and I was hoping to get a peak inside one of them. However, my hopes were dashed when we were informed that only the gardens of Villa Aldobrandini were open to the public. Having recently seen the Baha’i Gardens in Haifa, we didn’t feel the need to walk up the large hill for possibly only some greenery as no flowers of any sort were in evidence. We were left to our own devices since we had no map and no other ideas as to what the city might offer, but we weren’t disappointed. Frascati is quite quaint and so typical of any place European, with its cobblestone streets, interesting architecture and outdoor cafes and restaurants.
There are lovely views of the surrounding countryside as the town is perched on a hill. Then it was time for a bite to eat since it was lunch time. We were glad we ate when we did – shortly thereafter we were surprised that all the restaurants and shops closed for an afternoon siesta so we were left to window shopping at best. Our day of site seeing finished, we opted for a train ride back to Rome, just for a different experience. Along the route is a well preserved ancient Roman aqueduct, and to think we had traveled all the way to Spain on a previous vacation to see one of those.

Our other day trip was to Sperlonga to enjoy a wonderful day at the beach. It is about an hour from Rome by train to Fondi and then another short bus ride into Sperlonga. The beach ‘scene’ here was a pleasant surprise and much to our liking, with its colourful umbrellas, clean sand and warm water. The town is situated high on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea with Truglia Tower below, once used as a look out point for pirates during the 16th century. The beach stretches for miles on either side of the Tower. I truly wish we had more time for and knowledge of the area although we did take note of the accommodations for a visit in the future – whenever that might be. Arriving back in Rome, via train again, we realized that it had rained in the city so we had timed our outing perfectly.

Our last day in Rome was spent walking, walking and more walking. We headed to Trastevere and enjoyed a morning coffee and newspaper read in a square with the usual fountain and church as our backdrop. Then it was over the Tiber River to Aventino (I think) somehow ending up in a very nice area of Rome. Gilbert stopped to watch how a door and frame were being fitted to a house. He talked to a person who seemed to be part of the process and found out they were putting in the door for a movie set that they would be filming later. He told us the house was amazing inside, with its own lift (elevator). I was obviously out of my usual character that day or I would have asked if we could have a quick look inside.
Then it was on to an area near Celio Hill and Parco San Sebastiano where we stopped to have lunch and proceeded to watch the action that was transpiring. More and more police were gathering and we found out a demonstration was on the way. Protesters were marching down the street upset at their jobs being relocated to Asia. The demonstration remained peaceful but we were forced to take a detour on our walk through Parco Sebastiano.
Our excitement for the day finished, we continued our walk, somehow reaching the infamous Spanish Steps. But not before stopping at a café to have a rest and quick drink – the most expensive limondada I have ever had in my life – about $10 and it wasn’t even made with real lemons. We had obviously made the mistake of stopping at a tourist ‘Square’ and ‘paid the price’ for our actions. Leaving the Spanish Steps behind, we joined the hoards of tourists walking towards Piazza Del Popolo. We took note of the perfect symmetry of the layout and buildings before finally making our way back to ‘home’, our evening spent with one last meal and glass of vino outdoors in the pleasant evening temperature.

The next morning, ‘up and at ‘em’ to the airport, not lingering for a last early morning coffee at the nearby outdoor café. Maybe I would have changed my mind if our usual café that we patronized was still open but it had closed suddenly 2 days prior. The competition was delighted with this, no doubt, and explained in his very limited English and sign language to Gilbert that his neighbor was ‘Mafioso’. We’re not sure if there is any truth to this suggestion but we do know that the other café had the best cappuccino at the best price and the owner had been extremely friendly.

I have left my heart, my’ amore’, in Italy (or maybe just Europe) and will be back sometime to reclaim it once again.

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