Jerusalem - The Old City 2011

We spent a week in Jerusalem, after a brief visit in Tiberias. Let’s face it – Jerusalem is the main reason tourists come to Israel. The history of the city is rich and varied, going back at least 3000 years. There have been many different groups in power throughout the ages, giving rise to a Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian quarter within the Old City Walls.

It is this diversity which ‘saved’ us for food and eating on Shabbat (Saturday) when everything Jewish shuts down, from Friday at dusk until Saturday at dusk. There are even Shabbat elevators that run slowly and automatically, stopping at each floor so individuals do not have to press the buttons or take stairs, which is considered work on the day of rest.

Not all Jewish people adhere to such strict customs but it is certainly more evident in Jerusalem where there is a larger population and concentration of ultraorthodox Jews (Hasidim). They are an interesting group of people to observe, always seemingly in a rush to somewhere. The men can’t be missed with their black hats (some with a fur trim), long black coats, white shirts, beards and side curls. The women also dress conservatively. It is a growing segment of the population as we have seen families with 5 to 7 children. To keep those hats clean? I did see one guy using the air hose at a gas station with the high power spray to clean the felt on his hat.

The Old City – within this walled fortress of narrow streets lined with souvenir shops we visited a few of the recommended sites as listed below:

The Via Dolorosa – this is the route that Jesus is thought to have taken as he carried his cross to Calvary. A unique experience is joining the Franciscan Fathers on Friday as they lead a procession along the route. Since Gilbert and I arrived in Jerusalem on a Friday, we decided we would join the ranks. However, we did arrive early so had some time to spare before the procession began.

While waiting Gilbert befriended 2 boys (ages 10 & 11) near the First Station of the Cross. They showed us where to see a great view of the Temple Mount. Then learning that we were interested in the Via Dolorosa, I guess they decided they would show us the way. We descended 3 steps with the one boy saying to us; ‘Watch this!” and, much to our amazement, he immediately did a flip in the air landing at the bottom of the steps. It was then we happened to notice the t-shirt he was wearing and realized he was a member of a Gymnastics’ Team. We declined their invitation for a tour of the Via Dolorosa, but obliged their request for a few shekels for their time. We saw them later with cokes – their reward for a few minutes with the foreigners.

Still waiting for the procession, we saw groups of military and police, completely armed, enter the Old City through one of the gates - we are guessing at least 100 individuals in total. A bit unnerving as I began to wonder if trouble was brewing. We can only surmise that they went to the Jewish Quarter as protection since Sunday would be Nackba – the Palestinian day of mourning coinciding with the declaration of a Jewish state.. Oddly enough, we never did see the police/military again in the Old City that day or evening.

Otherwise it was a mixed bag of people wandering by - two women sporting baskets on their heads and another group bearing a large cross. It seemed to be business as usual.

The procession eventually started and we joined the group, making our way along very narrow alleyways and stopping at the significant markers. We listened to the Stations of the Cross in 3 languages via a microphone and boom box. It was a somber and quiet procession with the group singing along the way.

Western (Wailing) Wall – As many may or may not know, the Western Wall is the most important religious shrine for the Jewish people. It has become a place of pilgrimage for many. We had read there is usually a large crowd on Friday at sunset to celebrate the arrival of Shabbat. So we finished with the Stations of the Cross and proceeded to the Wall. After a brief security check, you enter onto a plaza with the Wall in front of you. I think I was struck by the division of men and women and, of course, all the various religious persons in their particular dress. The actual prayer rituals were as I had read. If you look close enough at the Wall, you will see all the little pieces of paper stuffed into the cracks. Each one contains a prayer and it is believed that the individual will have a better than average chance of their prayer being answered if it is inserted into the Wall. We visited the Wall again the following day with our friends from Tel Aviv and actually touched the Wall, a solemn and moving experience unto itself.

Temple Mount – (aka Haram ash-Sharif to the Muslims) this is where the prophet Mohammed deemed, through his night journey, that Jerusalem is a holy place for Muslims. It is also sacred for the Jews as being the foundation stone of the world. At present, Jerusalem’s Muslim community has control over the Mount which does not fare well with many Jewish people. Given the importance to both religious groups, security can be tight and visitation times are limited.

For us, the tourist, this contentious piece of land was not quite what we expected. It is a large paved plaza with the Dome of the Rock as its showcase. It is located on the actual piece of rock that is sacred to both the Muslim and Jewish faiths.

The Dome of the Rock is quite beautiful with its golden Dome (and yes it is gold) and the mosaics on the outer walls. Unfortunately we were unable to enter as we are non-Muslim. To the south side of the plaza is the Al-Aqsa Mosque where in ancient times it served as a market place. Today it is a functioning house of worship. Again, we were restricted entry. Otherwise, the plaza area is quite plain and seemed to us, in need of repair. gardening and a bit of garbage clean-up.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre – to Christians, this church marks the spot where it is said Jesus was nailed to the cross, died and rose from the dead. Between the 13th and 14th Station of the Cross is the Stone of Unction. This is where the body of Jesus was cleaned and we witnessed Pilgrims putting a bit of oil on the stone and then rubbing it with a handkerchief as to take away some of the holiness of the place. The 14th Station is the Holy Sepulchre – which is the tomb of Jesus. It is surrounded by a large stone/wooden structure with a long line of people waiting to pass by the tomb. We wandered through the Church noting the various holy relicsand spots throughout.

Western Wall Tunnels – this was by far our favourite site to visit in the Old City, an archaeological dig underneath the Muslim Quarter with a path that travels the length of the Western Wall. It is a guided tour that whisks you back in time (about 2000 years ago) to when the walls around the Temple Mount were first constructed. The walk eventually takes you down to the original street level with stone archways looming high overhead. Some of the foundation stones of the wall are enormous – the guide pointing out one in particular that is the size of a bus. The history of the area and why the street level was raised over the course of time is extremely fascinating. As well, we were shown a brief film with explanations as to how these mammoth stones were put into place.. The tour lasts just over an hour and was well worth the price of admission, and then some.