Yogyakarta, Indonesia - June 2012

After our long train ride to Yogyakarta we were looking forward to checking into our ‘hostel’.  It turned out to be a real gem, probably a bit more upscale than friends give us credit for staying in.  We were grateful for the air conditioning and swimming pool as the heat and humidity continue to plague us.  We did ask about the Indonesians and their wearing of long sleeved jackets – yes the people actually feel quite cool and wear them for warmth.  Given that tidbit of information, we both agreed we would not see ourselves acclimatizing to this weather during our lifetime.

Our first day in town we ventured out early on a self-guided walking tour.  We were quite adroit at ignoring the endless touts offering rides in their becaks or the batik salesmen promising real deals on their ‘authentic’ wares.  Gilbert and I even discussed that we had no desire to even look at any batik.  So of course, where did we end up? you guessed it - at a legitimate Batik showroom/school where the process was explained to us.  Next thing we know we are walking out the door with a beautiful wall hanging.  I think part of the lure was that it was easy to fold up and put into an envelope to take home.  We’ll put Gilbert to work making the frame when back in Canada.

Even though we deviated from our original plan, I wouldn’t say our walking tour was entirely in vain.  There were a few colonial buildings, various people and odds and ends along the street that caught our attention.  Done with shopping, done with heat we opted for a shower and afternoon tea at the hotel.

So how is this possible – we are having tea and another couple sits down at the table next to us - he has a hat boldly displaying the word ‘Canada’ on it.  This seems to us a real conversation starter.  As it turns out, they are Tony and Teresa Daroza.  Anyone living on the North Shore may recognize their names as they are realtors.  They used to own a bicycle shop in Edgemont Village but sold the business a number of years ago.  They actually live within 10 minutes of our house.  Tony and Teresa are avid RV’ers, a travel idea we have toyed with, so the time spent with them was interesting.  Somehow I think we will be bumping into them again when we are back home.

The main tourist attraction within Yogyakarta is the Sultan’s Palace or Kraton.  The Sultan is now just a figurehead, contributing little to government affairs.  A guide is required for seeing the Kraton but quite frankly, the site is not long on interesting treasures – the Royal Batik fabrics, family photos and the main greeting/entrance way.  Certainly the Palace guards did not look like a fierce lot.  So after our brief tour, Gilbert and I sat down to further discuss our plans.  Well, it was another zoo moment for Gilbert.  There was this rather large tour group of Indonesian men, in bright yellow shirts, all wanting to take their picture with him.  I’m not exactly sure what the appeal was but I think he must be in about 15-20 photos.

We had hired 2 Becak drivers to take us to the Palace and then decided to retain them for a few more hours to take us around town.  They drove us to Kota Gede, about a 5 kilometer distance.  We nicknamed it ‘silver city’ as the streets are literally lined with silver shops, this being a silver industry hub since the 1930’s.  And no, this time we were not even remotely lured into looking or buying.  I’d say my delight with this outing is when I briefly gave driving a becak a try.  It is quite easy, if you can reach the pedals, although we did give the guys a break by walking when going uphill.  We found out we overpaid the guys by about Rp. 40,000 each which was about $5 – just an indication of low the cost of living is here.

That would relate to food prices as well.  The restaurants have been delicious and very reasonable - cheap by Vancouver standards.  Gilbert has taken to eating spicy hot, green chilies from time to time.  He says he feels a big burn in his heart but I think it goes straight to his vocal chords where I’ve heard his voice go up an octave or two each time.

And speaking of food - we have been enjoying a delicious buffet breakfast, with foods from around the world and serenaded by two gentleman playing such wonderful music.

But the real draw to visiting this part of Java is a trip to Borobudur.  This is an old Buddhist temple built between AD 750 and AD 850.  It is an impressive monument with its various levels of carved images and latticed stupas at the top.  It also offers beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.  However, our experience visiting such sites is that much of the original stonework has been replaced, this being no exception.  Some of the original pieces are nearby at the museum, lined up as in a graveyard.  Borobudur sits in the shadow of Gunung Merapi, a steaming, active volcano.  Not to sound redundant, but there were large school groups visiting Borodudur and we were once again flanked by kids wanting to take our picture.  It’s that year end school English project we seem unable to escape.  And yes - that is Gilbert in his finest - a skirt.  It's a required 'dress' for anyone visiting the temple grounds. 

We should have gone to Kaliurang for a better view of the volcano; we should have gone to the bird market (it had been moved to a different location); we should have gone to the Ramayana Ballet, Java’s most spectacular dance (the show wasn’t on the night we decided to go); we should have gone to the Prambanan Temples, an ancient Hindu Complex (we planned to see that at the same time as the dance show).

Truth be told – our energy was lacking after 2 days in Yogyakarta and we had little get up and go to see the ‘should of’s’ on our list .  We thought it was the heat but it turned out to be a nasty flu virus which was taking hold of us while in Yogyakarta.  The full effects showed up when we arrived in Bali – a rash which covered our bodies from head to toe, aches and pains of flu and spending 2 days unable to get out of bed.  Gilbert succumbed first while I awaited my eventual fate.