China - June, 2010 - Shanghai/World Expo

June 20 to June 22 – Shanghai
A short flight from Xiamen and we were in Shanghai. It immediately felt like arriving home, having spent so much time in the city. We stayed in the French Concession, my favourite area with its tree-lined streets, parks and colonial buildings. Our room had a park view so we could watch the early morning exercising activities – tai chi, sword art and the ever popular walking backwards.

We were in Shanghai as Gilbert would be attending the Shanghai Institute of Foreign Trade (SIFT) graduation ceremony on the Tuesday. There were other Douglas College Executives in town for the ceremony so part of our time was pre-arranged for us. Sunday night we went to see the theatre performance “La Vie En Rose”. It was excellent except that it was only in French with Mandarin printed on screens. We vowed to look up the story line later.

Monday was set aside for the World Expo. We were fortunate that one of the individuals with Douglas College has connections in Shanghai. We received VIP treatment – meaning we went to the front of the line and were able to see some of the most popular Pavillions, by-passing the 5-6 hour waiting lines. We saw Saudi Arabia, Germany, Spain, Monaco, Canada, and a futuristic presentation put on by some company. Dinner was a delicious Chinese meal with some of my favourites and also some new taste sensations. Then we parted company with the group and Dusty and I stayed to take pictures of the buildings lit up at night.

Tuesday Dusty and I were on our own. We spent time shopping, picking up all sorts of bargains. Wednesday it was ‘say good-bye to China’ time but I’ll be back in October to visit again.

To view Shanghai World Expo pictures go to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624888120150/

China - June, 2010 - Xiamen

June 16 to June 19 - Xiamen
We arrived in Xiamen hoping to see the Dragon Boat races. June 16, 2010 is the fifth day of the fifth of the lunar calendar but given TIC, they had been held a few days earlier.

Being a harbor city, Xiamen has plenty of water. Our 1st day, we enjoyed a stroll to the nearby Yundang Lake, on one side lined with café’s and trees. It was pleasant enough enjoying a meal on an outdoor veranda until the mosquito’s arrived in full force and we headed back to the luxury of the hotel. We opted to stay at a Pan Pacific since Dusty has been working for the hotel chain. Not a bad choice since we told them we were celebrating 2 birthdays. They sent us a "bithday" cake one night and fruit and chocolates another night which we enjoyed while watching World Cup Soccer late in the evening.

Day 2 – staying again in the lap of luxury, we started our morning with the 2 hour breakfast buffet. Although not quite as extensive as Harbin, there was still a delicious blend of western and Chinese cuisine. Then it was off to visit the Island of Gulang Yu. We chose to walk to the ferry terminal, taking in the feel of the city and thinking we’d work off a few pounds of food as well. Plan B backfired as it was only 9 in the morning but already hot and steamy – best to take it slow or we’d need a shower in no time.

A quick 5 minute ferry ride and we were on the Island. Arriving we realized we left all our information about the Island back at the hotel. We were going to have to wing it as English is non-existent here. We haphazardly walked the maze of streets, circumventing the Island counter clockwise enjoying the old colonial buildings and lush vegetation. Eventually we rested our hot and weary feet and bodies (temperature around 36C) at a little gathering of restaurants on the far side of the Island. Enjoying some refreshingly cool coconut puddings with fruit we watched an octopus try to escape his minimal enclosure and eventual fate as someone’s next meal. Then it was a slow stroll back to the ferry terminal and the mainland and a welcome air-conditioned taxi ride to the hotel.

Day 3 – we booked a Chinese tour to the Fujian countryside to visit the Tulou or Roundhouses. These are self contained round structures with the original ones built around 300AD for protection from bandits and wild animals. They are large enough to house entire clans and are still in use today. It was a 3 hour bus ride to the site, leaving the city behind and climbing up into the hills where tea plantations abound. The views were spectacular, all the more so as we had no idea what to expect as explanations are all in Mandarin. Our 1st stop was lunch – very communal and very tasty. Then on to tour the roundhouse. They are extremely interesting, with kitchens and living quarters on the main floors and bedrooms on the upper levels. In this instance, pictures are worth a thousand words so I’ll let them do the talking. As expected, there are locals selling souvenirs and I picked up my good luck toad for 20rmb, a far cry from the 500rmb in Xian. After spending time wandering through the structures, we took a walk to a look-out point for views of the surrounding area – again, just beautiful.

Day 4 – our standard 2 hour breakfast and then a bus tour around the perimeter of Xiamen. We quickly board a two-decker, open air bus, take seats on the upper level and wait to go. But TIC, the bus ends up broken and we have to board a different one. The bus is virtually empty and then a young Chinese couple board and the guy sits right next to Gilbert, even though there is no room to crowd him. You can imagine Gilbert’s face, like ‘why me’ – especially since the day is becoming increasingly hot and humid. Somehow the guy realized that maybe Gilbert didn’t want him next to him and politely stood up and asked if he could sit here. Gilbert, being stuck, said yes. Turns out the guy wants to practice his English. Perfect as Gilbert can practice his Mandarin at the same time. So they carry on for a bit, Gilbert impressing us with his new vocabulary. Then Gilbert asks the guy a question in Mandarin, but he doesn’t understand. Gilbert asks again and still there is no understanding. On his 3rd attempt, the guy says to him, “Is that Mandarin or English?” Of course, we are howling with the guy wondering why. Apparently Gilbert is not quite fluent yet.

So on to the bus ride. It is interesting along the harbor as in parts they have built the road right out and over the water. Further along the coastline there are some wonderful beaches and sidewalks for walking/biking. Not sure how much Gilbert saw once his new found friend departed the bus at the beach because the gently rolling bus and sea breezes lulled him to sleep. We did enjoy the scenery and it was a great way to spend a hot and humid afternoon.

Lots more pictures at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624713489747/

China - June, 2010 - Xian

June 13 – Traveling to Xian
We are flying to Xian to meet Gilbert and continue our travels with him. We thought we’d take the overnight train again but alas, impossible to get a ticket of any kind only 3 days in advance.

Our flight was on some obscure Chinese Airline with 1 stopover in the middle of nowhere. We flew for miles over deserted looking desert –certainly no roads discernable from the air. The stopover - we had to leave the plane with all our belongings and board again 10 minutes later – just long enough for a few photos and a chance to figure out where we were and why so many travelers were getting on and off. We were in Zhongwei which is a gateway to part of the Yellow River and Tengger Desert. Maybe someday we’ll go back and visit.

Arriving in Xian – we had difficulty finding our hostel, made all the more difficult because the travel book had it on the wrong location on the map. After a good hour of searching in heat and humidity we opted for a Starbucks, counting on Lady Luck that someone inside spoke English. We were aptly rewarded – there was a young, former tourist guide who phoned the hostel, wrote the directions down for a taxi driver and away we went – all of 2 blocks. So close and yet so far. Gilbert joined us later that evening having had his original flight cancelled without being notified until he reached the airport – the joys of air travel.

June 14 & 15 – Xian
Of course, our 1st priority was to visit the Terra Cotta Warriors. We started out early in the morning of Day 1 hoping to beat the hordes of tourists. Getting there was quite simple – we boarded a local city bus to the bus station and then transferred to another bus taking us out to the museum. The local bus was interesting as anyone about 5’8” or up has to tilt their head sideways to stand. As the bus was SRO, Gilbert was fortunate to end up in the stairwell. Otherwise I am sure he would have had a stiff neck, not to mention what a few bumps in the road along the way might do. The 2nd bus was ‘normal’ with plenty of seats and head room.

We hired a guide at the Terra Cotta Warrior Museum as she would know all the ins and outs and details of what we were seeing. In perfect Chinese form, she budged us to the front of the line so we shaved off at least 25 minutes or more waiting in the hot sun for the tram. The 3 different buildings that house the warriors are extremely interesting. The excavation is still currently under way and will probably continue for many years to come. The work is done in the early hours of the morning or later at night when there are no tourists. But you can see where they are working so your imagination and knowledge easily fill in the blanks. It was the right choice to hire a guide, although we sensed her impatience towards the end when she realized we weren’t in the market for souvenirs so there was no commission to be had. I tried to bargain for a good luck frog that turns colours – max I’d pay was 40rmb, a far cry from their 500rmb asking price. With that spread there was no deal in the making.

For evening entertainment there is plenty of ‘people watching’ as the plazas around the Drum and Bell Towers are crowded with tourists and locals. We enjoyed watching the kite flyers and bought a couple to try. I was totally unsuccessful at launching mine and instead landed it in a puddle of water. Rats, Charlie Brown! I’ll bring it one day on a bike ride around Vancouver where I may have more success.

A visit to the Muslim Quarter is another ‘must do’, especially at night when the street market is in full force. We were fascinated by the guy serving up quail eggs but the stir fry and skewers also looked quite tempting. Since we had just eaten a huge spicy Sichuanese-Cantonese meal, there was no room for these delectable looking delights. A walk down the streets harbouring the stalls is not without its dangers. They have gas flames from propane tanks that shoot a continual stream of fire into the walkway – one trip or shove and you’ll end up quite toasted. And what about the ‘cat fights’ that occur given the hot weather and hot woks – 2 women were really going at each other with shoving and yelling – certainly one way to draw a crowd.

A bike ride along the top of the City Walls is also recommended. It is a 14km, 1 ½ hour ride and offers views of Xian in all four directions. We managed to finish before the heat of the day really took over but it was back to the hostel after that to shower and relish air conditioning.

An aside – it has been great to have Gilbert along as the Paparazzi disappeared. With just the 2 of us in Harbin and Beijing, the Chinese were relentless in taking a picture of Dusty and the blond hair. They come right up and asked to have their picture taken with her, or they take sneak pictures from afar or they hover around us until they have enough nerve to ask or they just stand and stare. One couple almost literally dropped their baby into her arms – it happened so quickly. We can only imagine what they tell their friends about the photos. So in that respect we were now travelling in peace.

For more photos go to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624809555004/

China - June, 2010 - Beijing

June 9 – Overnight Train to BeijingDusty and I were unsure what to expect at the train station as our various hosts in Harbin hinted we would have difficulty navigating the building without knowing Mandarin. However, as we suspected, it was a piece of cake – just show the ticket and rely on universal sign language - finger pointing the correct direction. Whoever we asked rattled off Mandarin as well, or who knows, maybe Russian, but it was all French to us. Needless to say, we made it to the jam-packed and steamy waiting area without incident - And noticed all the people we didn’t want to share our sleeping cubby with.

We finally boarded the train and found our sleeping bunks quite easily. We were stacked 3 high with Dusty and I taking the top beds. We knew this as we couldn’t get anything better at the time of booking. To our surprise, the sheets, down comforters and mattresses were absolutely spotless. However I wouldn’t recommend sleeping on the train if you are over 5’6” tall. Even that might be pushing it. This was one of those moments when being short really pays off. Our neighbors - 3 women who took an instant dislike to us and one 20/30 year old guy who was helpful with our luggage. Whew – none of the unsavory characters we saw at the station! The rest is history - the train left on-time, lights went out about 1 hour later and everyone drifted off to la-la-land. We lucked out with no true snorers. Morning came and as we neared Beijing, the guy left and the 3 ladies proceeded to have soup and cucumber for breakfast. We were stuck ‘upstairs’ as the only way to get down out of the bunk was to put my foot in their soup! But being Canadian, we patiently and politely waited until we had an opportunity to climb down without stepping on them. It was then we realized we were one of the last ones off the train. Looking back on it, I should have gone for my foot in their food.


June 10 to June 12 – Beijing
I’ll be brief with Beijing as both Dusty and I have been here before. Our goal was to visit the sites we missed 1st time around.

I’ll start with a Hutong area. Ever since the media has hyped the disappearance of these traditional neighborhoods, I felt we must wander through them now before my only chance is akin to a visit to a ‘Pioneer Village’ here in North America. Our hostel was in a Hutong so ticked this off the list immediately. For many people, they would find the neighborhoods an interesting ‘look’ into Chinese life, but for me, having been in China 10 years ago when it was just opening to the ‘West’, daily life was far more interesting before the economic boom and influences of the western world.

Next on the list was the Forbidden City. Dusty missed it as a visiting dignitary was in town so the area was completely blocked to visitors. It is a fairly interesting long walk from building to building but a peek inside each one reveals fake replicas of furnishings, the originals long gone - probably disappearing sometime during the Cultural Revolution. I am particularly fond of the ornate decorations on the eaves of the roof’s - human and animal ceramic figurines. We ended our walk with a visit to Jingshan Park at the north end of the Forbidden City. It is one of the few hills in the city – man made from digging the moat around the Forbidden City. Temperatures still soaring in China, it was a hot climb to the top but we were rewarded with panoramic views of Beijing.

Our real challenge was to visit Mao’s Tomb. Dusty had tried 3 times previously but was unsuccessful for various reasons. Our first attempt (her 4th) and we bailed. We would have to pay for camera storage and we didn’t have ID with us. Determined, we gave it one more try the following morning and were successful. You can imagine the long and solemn procession of people that quickly glimpse Mao lying in state. Except for the young security guard that sees 2 blond haired laowai (foreigners) and immediately begins to smile and chat us up, breaking the extreme silence and solemnity in the room.

The Olympic Plaza was non-existent when I was previously in Beijing so I thought it might be interesting to see the Aquatic Cube and Bird’s Nest Stadium lit up and glowing at night. Again we met with success, although it was drizzling the entire time. Just as well we didn’t stay long as we were famished and all we could think of was Peking Duck. We made it to a recommended restaurant with only 15 minutes to spare. Fortunately we were not disappointed and returned the following evening for one of our favourite meals again.

Having completed our ‘must-sees’, we did have time for a bit of wandering. We checked out the Donghuamen Night Market where they skewer insects, snakes and star fish for wok cooking – much to the delight of tourists. For a different shopping experience we thought we’d try the Lufthansa Shopping City mall. We realized we were out of our league when starting prices for shoes was 8,000rmb (about $1,200cdn) and we’d choke on each gulp going down trying to enjoy a coffee at the prices they were charging. The chauffeurs’ at the entrance should have been a dead give-away before we even entered (and this mall was recommended in the Lonely Planet as a place we’d find all we needed!). An evening stroll around Houhai Lake near the hostel, just one of the many lakes in Beijing, was certainly pleasant. Another swim club here, but this time in a stagnant lake which is home to a real gaggle of geese (50 or more) – our first thought - they must all suffer from a bad case of swimmer’s itch – TIC.

To see more pictures of Beijing check out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624670594349/

China - June, 2010 - Harbin

June 5 – Dusty and I spent about 20 hours flying to Harbin, in Heilongjiang Province. That’s northern China near Russia. Apparently the climate here is akin to Siberia. However, we arrive during a heat wave and Harbin climbs the charts to 35C, the hottest city in all of China.

China certainly never ceases to amaze and amuse us – this time is no exception, beginning at the Shanghai airport, where we had a stopover. There is new signage when we enter airport security which reads ‘Explosion Proof Check – In Progress’. The translation? – matches and lighters are not allowed on flights so must be disposed of before passing through security. It is a bit of a chuckle to read but the basket is full of lighters. We pass through security with flying colours and reach the waiting area. And then the humour really begins – we see a guy with his face lost inside a huge piece of fresh watermelon (probably ¼ of the whole) with the vine still attached, slobbering away with juice dripping everywhere. You tell me – how did he get through security with that? The expression we use is TIC – This Is China – and I’m sure there is plenty more to come.

June 7 to June 9 – Harbin
We arrive in Harbin at 11pm, crawl into bed around 1am and awake fairly refreshed, considering we have missed a day and our bodies are functioning on opposite clocks. We opted for the Shangri La La Hotel, as it is called in Harbin, and are glad for the comfort and luxury as the stories we have heard lead us to believe we would otherwise experience hardship while visiting this part of China.
The mornings are great – a huge breakfast buffet with typical western fare of bacon and eggs and waffles, some sushi for a Japanese flare and then Chinese cuisine for the majority of customers – 5 different kinds of congee, dumplings and spring rolls and even a soup bar where you choose your own ingredients from an array of Chinese vegetables and odd looking foods. Two hours later we are ready to face the outdoor heat and explore.

June 7
Day 1 has been prearranged – two students, Hailey and Summer, from Heilongjian Institute of Science and Technology take us to the Siberian Tiger Park. Since it is Dragon Boat time, they bring us each a macramé bracelet and small sachet that they have made – traditional gifts that abound during festival time. Before going to the park, we first ask for a brief detour to the store to buy some parasols. They are very chic – with lace, sequins and bright iridescent colours. All the women sport them for cover from the sun. The store we shopped at? Walmart, not to be mistaken for the Chinese knock-off - Wumart.

Siberian Tiger Park - Purchasing the entry ticket is an experience in itself as we have the option to buy food for feeding the tigers. They like the local specialties such as strips of beef and live chickens, roosters, ducks and even cows. We chose the beef from the menu and headed out in our caged bus to visit the tigers. Being the heat of the day, these tigers seem like nice big pussy cats until they jump onto the cage to wrestle the beef that is offered them. Fortunately, the old, ’made in China’ safari vehicle seems to be holding up ok. For the ‘live animal’ meal, we saw a chicken being tossed to the tigers, which is then hunted down in about 20 seconds. It’s hardly Marlin Perkins’s “Wild Kingdom” but with fewer than 500 Siberian Tigers in existence, the Park has had success with breading them. Of course it’s always fun to experiment with breeding so we did see a ‘liger’, the cross between a female lion and male tiger. Not to be confused with a ‘tiglon’ – yours to figure. There is a myriad of other cats in cages to see – typical zoo setting but interesting for us to see Summer’s and Hailey’s interest as this is a new experience for them.

Heilongjian Institute of Science and Technology - Then it’s on to a tour of the University where Gilbert works. The University is no more than 8 years old, if that, and from a distance the campus looks lovely but up close the buildings look quite worn. Typical Chinese construction – all for show. And how about the nearby apartment buildings that are just being completed. Painters were putting the finishing touches on a high-rise which is going to be torn down as the ground it is built on is too unstable. So why are they continuing to paint? TIC.

For dinner, a group of us went to a Korean BBQ. We had our first taste of Harbin beer which I prefer to Tsing Tao. The meal was delicious. Then it was time to catch the last ferry of the day which took us across the Songhua River. A 2-hour walk along the river promenade brought us back to the hotel.

June 8
Day 2 –late start to the day – did I mention the amazing breakfast buffet?
Sun Island Park - We decided to visit the indoor Ice and Snow Gallery at Sun Island Park. A quick drive over the river and we were there. Initially getting lost in the park, we stumbled across a sculptured art garden. Grace and beauty usually come to mind when I think of Chinese art but I’m rethinking that. Is it possible the ‘fat’ artist Fernando Botero from Colombia had some influence here?

Eventually, we did find the Ice and Snow Gallery. Before stepping inside, we first donned long stockings, boots and a heavy coat to brave the cold. It was a ‘cool’ place, complete with an ice slide, and gave us an idea of the Winter Ice Festival, minus the -40C temperature. So which is better, the extreme cold or the wall of heat that quickly enveloped us when we again stepped outdoors? I’ll cast my vote for the air conditioned taxi that awaited us as we exited the park.

Next stop – Church of St. Sophia. But first it was a drive back over the river, a chore in itself as the bridge had now been closed – a day earlier than posted to the general public. In its place was a few floating barges linked together and decorated with coloured lights. We eventually made it across, saw the church and then strolled along the Daoliqu District, an historical area that has been converted into a pedestrian mall.

We made it back to the hotel and waited and waited and waited and waited for my husband and the University staff to take us to dinner. Why so late? You guessed it - TIC - the bridge had been closed a day early. Obviously starved, we were taken to ‘Mao’s favourite restaurant’ and treated to Hunan Cuisine. Translation – Mao’s favourite cuisine was Hunan so any restaurant serving it is Mao’s favourite. Everything was delicious so what’s good for Mao is good for me!

June 9
Day 3 – it was a late start – did I mention the amazing breakfast buffet?
We spent the afternoon shopping, picking up a few more of the fashionable parasols, among other things. We encountered a few locals trying to practice their Russian with us. Later we met Gilbert for dinner and then went for one last walk along the promenade before leaving Harbin on an overnight train to Beijing.

The Promenade – approximately 2 miles in length, the promenade walkway along the Songhau River is synonymous with Harbin. It literally pulses with the heart and soul of the city. If you haven’t been to the promenade, you haven’t been to Harbin. This list of what we saw is hardly all inclusive.
The Swim Club – mostly men, but a few women as well, all in their black speedos, swimming the river, which is chemically polluted by the way. As of yet, the mutant genes are undetectable. The club members are a hardy group, cutting a pool out of the ice in the middle of winter. Makes the Polar Bear swimmers on New Year’s Day in Vancouver seem a tad sissy!
The Dancing Groups – you name it, they’ll dance it – with flags, without flags, from traditional Chinese music to western pop to ballroom. The variety is extensive, limited only by one’s imagination.
The Roller Bladers – there are 10 year old’s practicing jumps and turns as graceful as any figure skater I have ever seen. And what about the guy with a hockey stick – amazing maneuvering in and out of the crowds – he would make the NHL for sure.
Athletic Groups – there is badminton and table tennis – played year round, and a full outdoor fitness area with the concrete underneath to literally break one’s fall. Some amazing strong and fit bodies there.
Dragon Boat Racers – with their methodical drum beats, they were out on the river practicing for this year’s race.

So What’s In a Name? Not much as one would quickly discover in China. In case you are wondering, the Chinese choose their own English names - it is not a translation of their Chinese name. Which leads to some interesting name picking. At the hotel, we met Cinderella. A University staff member is named ‘Double’ (yes- as in double trouble). My husband has met George Washington, not to be mistaken for George Bush as the individual strongly emphasized. My husband also has contact with a student that has changed his name 3 times, so much so, he’s never sure anymore what to call him.

For more pictures of Harbin check out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624757484140/

For interesting winter sports pictures in Harbin check out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624662225077/