June 16 to June 19 - Xiamen
We arrived in Xiamen hoping to see the Dragon Boat races. June 16, 2010 is the fifth day of the fifth of the lunar calendar but given TIC, they had been held a few days earlier.
Being a harbor city, Xiamen has plenty of water. Our 1st day, we enjoyed a stroll to the nearby Yundang Lake, on one side lined with cafĂ©’s and trees. It was pleasant enough enjoying a meal on an outdoor veranda until the mosquito’s arrived in full force and we headed back to the luxury of the hotel. We opted to stay at a Pan Pacific since Dusty has been working for the hotel chain. Not a bad choice since we told them we were celebrating 2 birthdays. They sent us a "bithday" cake one night and fruit and chocolates another night which we enjoyed while watching World Cup Soccer late in the evening.
Day 2 – staying again in the lap of luxury, we started our morning with the 2 hour breakfast buffet. Although not quite as extensive as Harbin, there was still a delicious blend of western and Chinese cuisine. Then it was off to visit the Island of Gulang Yu. We chose to walk to the ferry terminal, taking in the feel of the city and thinking we’d work off a few pounds of food as well. Plan B backfired as it was only 9 in the morning but already hot and steamy – best to take it slow or we’d need a shower in no time.
A quick 5 minute ferry ride and we were on the Island. Arriving we realized we left all our information about the Island back at the hotel. We were going to have to wing it as English is non-existent here. We haphazardly walked the maze of streets, circumventing the Island counter clockwise enjoying the old colonial buildings and lush vegetation. Eventually we rested our hot and weary feet and bodies (temperature around 36C) at a little gathering of restaurants on the far side of the Island. Enjoying some refreshingly cool coconut puddings with fruit we watched an octopus try to escape his minimal enclosure and eventual fate as someone’s next meal. Then it was a slow stroll back to the ferry terminal and the mainland and a welcome air-conditioned taxi ride to the hotel.
Day 3 – we booked a Chinese tour to the Fujian countryside to visit the Tulou or Roundhouses. These are self contained round structures with the original ones built around 300AD for protection from bandits and wild animals. They are large enough to house entire clans and are still in use today. It was a 3 hour bus ride to the site, leaving the city behind and climbing up into the hills where tea plantations abound. The views were spectacular, all the more so as we had no idea what to expect as explanations are all in Mandarin. Our 1st stop was lunch – very communal and very tasty. Then on to tour the roundhouse. They are extremely interesting, with kitchens and living quarters on the main floors and bedrooms on the upper levels. In this instance, pictures are worth a thousand words so I’ll let them do the talking. As expected, there are locals selling souvenirs and I picked up my good luck toad for 20rmb, a far cry from the 500rmb in Xian. After spending time wandering through the structures, we took a walk to a look-out point for views of the surrounding area – again, just beautiful.
Day 4 – our standard 2 hour breakfast and then a bus tour around the perimeter of Xiamen. We quickly board a two-decker, open air bus, take seats on the upper level and wait to go. But TIC, the bus ends up broken and we have to board a different one. The bus is virtually empty and then a young Chinese couple board and the guy sits right next to Gilbert, even though there is no room to crowd him. You can imagine Gilbert’s face, like ‘why me’ – especially since the day is becoming increasingly hot and humid. Somehow the guy realized that maybe Gilbert didn’t want him next to him and politely stood up and asked if he could sit here. Gilbert, being stuck, said yes. Turns out the guy wants to practice his English. Perfect as Gilbert can practice his Mandarin at the same time. So they carry on for a bit, Gilbert impressing us with his new vocabulary. Then Gilbert asks the guy a question in Mandarin, but he doesn’t understand. Gilbert asks again and still there is no understanding. On his 3rd attempt, the guy says to him, “Is that Mandarin or English?” Of course, we are howling with the guy wondering why. Apparently Gilbert is not quite fluent yet.
So on to the bus ride. It is interesting along the harbor as in parts they have built the road right out and over the water. Further along the coastline there are some wonderful beaches and sidewalks for walking/biking. Not sure how much Gilbert saw once his new found friend departed the bus at the beach because the gently rolling bus and sea breezes lulled him to sleep. We did enjoy the scenery and it was a great way to spend a hot and humid afternoon.
Lots more pictures at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624713489747/
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