China - June, 2010 - Harbin

June 5 – Dusty and I spent about 20 hours flying to Harbin, in Heilongjiang Province. That’s northern China near Russia. Apparently the climate here is akin to Siberia. However, we arrive during a heat wave and Harbin climbs the charts to 35C, the hottest city in all of China.

China certainly never ceases to amaze and amuse us – this time is no exception, beginning at the Shanghai airport, where we had a stopover. There is new signage when we enter airport security which reads ‘Explosion Proof Check – In Progress’. The translation? – matches and lighters are not allowed on flights so must be disposed of before passing through security. It is a bit of a chuckle to read but the basket is full of lighters. We pass through security with flying colours and reach the waiting area. And then the humour really begins – we see a guy with his face lost inside a huge piece of fresh watermelon (probably ¼ of the whole) with the vine still attached, slobbering away with juice dripping everywhere. You tell me – how did he get through security with that? The expression we use is TIC – This Is China – and I’m sure there is plenty more to come.

June 7 to June 9 – Harbin
We arrive in Harbin at 11pm, crawl into bed around 1am and awake fairly refreshed, considering we have missed a day and our bodies are functioning on opposite clocks. We opted for the Shangri La La Hotel, as it is called in Harbin, and are glad for the comfort and luxury as the stories we have heard lead us to believe we would otherwise experience hardship while visiting this part of China.
The mornings are great – a huge breakfast buffet with typical western fare of bacon and eggs and waffles, some sushi for a Japanese flare and then Chinese cuisine for the majority of customers – 5 different kinds of congee, dumplings and spring rolls and even a soup bar where you choose your own ingredients from an array of Chinese vegetables and odd looking foods. Two hours later we are ready to face the outdoor heat and explore.

June 7
Day 1 has been prearranged – two students, Hailey and Summer, from Heilongjian Institute of Science and Technology take us to the Siberian Tiger Park. Since it is Dragon Boat time, they bring us each a macramé bracelet and small sachet that they have made – traditional gifts that abound during festival time. Before going to the park, we first ask for a brief detour to the store to buy some parasols. They are very chic – with lace, sequins and bright iridescent colours. All the women sport them for cover from the sun. The store we shopped at? Walmart, not to be mistaken for the Chinese knock-off - Wumart.

Siberian Tiger Park - Purchasing the entry ticket is an experience in itself as we have the option to buy food for feeding the tigers. They like the local specialties such as strips of beef and live chickens, roosters, ducks and even cows. We chose the beef from the menu and headed out in our caged bus to visit the tigers. Being the heat of the day, these tigers seem like nice big pussy cats until they jump onto the cage to wrestle the beef that is offered them. Fortunately, the old, ’made in China’ safari vehicle seems to be holding up ok. For the ‘live animal’ meal, we saw a chicken being tossed to the tigers, which is then hunted down in about 20 seconds. It’s hardly Marlin Perkins’s “Wild Kingdom” but with fewer than 500 Siberian Tigers in existence, the Park has had success with breading them. Of course it’s always fun to experiment with breeding so we did see a ‘liger’, the cross between a female lion and male tiger. Not to be confused with a ‘tiglon’ – yours to figure. There is a myriad of other cats in cages to see – typical zoo setting but interesting for us to see Summer’s and Hailey’s interest as this is a new experience for them.

Heilongjian Institute of Science and Technology - Then it’s on to a tour of the University where Gilbert works. The University is no more than 8 years old, if that, and from a distance the campus looks lovely but up close the buildings look quite worn. Typical Chinese construction – all for show. And how about the nearby apartment buildings that are just being completed. Painters were putting the finishing touches on a high-rise which is going to be torn down as the ground it is built on is too unstable. So why are they continuing to paint? TIC.

For dinner, a group of us went to a Korean BBQ. We had our first taste of Harbin beer which I prefer to Tsing Tao. The meal was delicious. Then it was time to catch the last ferry of the day which took us across the Songhua River. A 2-hour walk along the river promenade brought us back to the hotel.

June 8
Day 2 –late start to the day – did I mention the amazing breakfast buffet?
Sun Island Park - We decided to visit the indoor Ice and Snow Gallery at Sun Island Park. A quick drive over the river and we were there. Initially getting lost in the park, we stumbled across a sculptured art garden. Grace and beauty usually come to mind when I think of Chinese art but I’m rethinking that. Is it possible the ‘fat’ artist Fernando Botero from Colombia had some influence here?

Eventually, we did find the Ice and Snow Gallery. Before stepping inside, we first donned long stockings, boots and a heavy coat to brave the cold. It was a ‘cool’ place, complete with an ice slide, and gave us an idea of the Winter Ice Festival, minus the -40C temperature. So which is better, the extreme cold or the wall of heat that quickly enveloped us when we again stepped outdoors? I’ll cast my vote for the air conditioned taxi that awaited us as we exited the park.

Next stop – Church of St. Sophia. But first it was a drive back over the river, a chore in itself as the bridge had now been closed – a day earlier than posted to the general public. In its place was a few floating barges linked together and decorated with coloured lights. We eventually made it across, saw the church and then strolled along the Daoliqu District, an historical area that has been converted into a pedestrian mall.

We made it back to the hotel and waited and waited and waited and waited for my husband and the University staff to take us to dinner. Why so late? You guessed it - TIC - the bridge had been closed a day early. Obviously starved, we were taken to ‘Mao’s favourite restaurant’ and treated to Hunan Cuisine. Translation – Mao’s favourite cuisine was Hunan so any restaurant serving it is Mao’s favourite. Everything was delicious so what’s good for Mao is good for me!

June 9
Day 3 – it was a late start – did I mention the amazing breakfast buffet?
We spent the afternoon shopping, picking up a few more of the fashionable parasols, among other things. We encountered a few locals trying to practice their Russian with us. Later we met Gilbert for dinner and then went for one last walk along the promenade before leaving Harbin on an overnight train to Beijing.

The Promenade – approximately 2 miles in length, the promenade walkway along the Songhau River is synonymous with Harbin. It literally pulses with the heart and soul of the city. If you haven’t been to the promenade, you haven’t been to Harbin. This list of what we saw is hardly all inclusive.
The Swim Club – mostly men, but a few women as well, all in their black speedos, swimming the river, which is chemically polluted by the way. As of yet, the mutant genes are undetectable. The club members are a hardy group, cutting a pool out of the ice in the middle of winter. Makes the Polar Bear swimmers on New Year’s Day in Vancouver seem a tad sissy!
The Dancing Groups – you name it, they’ll dance it – with flags, without flags, from traditional Chinese music to western pop to ballroom. The variety is extensive, limited only by one’s imagination.
The Roller Bladers – there are 10 year old’s practicing jumps and turns as graceful as any figure skater I have ever seen. And what about the guy with a hockey stick – amazing maneuvering in and out of the crowds – he would make the NHL for sure.
Athletic Groups – there is badminton and table tennis – played year round, and a full outdoor fitness area with the concrete underneath to literally break one’s fall. Some amazing strong and fit bodies there.
Dragon Boat Racers – with their methodical drum beats, they were out on the river practicing for this year’s race.

So What’s In a Name? Not much as one would quickly discover in China. In case you are wondering, the Chinese choose their own English names - it is not a translation of their Chinese name. Which leads to some interesting name picking. At the hotel, we met Cinderella. A University staff member is named ‘Double’ (yes- as in double trouble). My husband has met George Washington, not to be mistaken for George Bush as the individual strongly emphasized. My husband also has contact with a student that has changed his name 3 times, so much so, he’s never sure anymore what to call him.

For more pictures of Harbin check out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624757484140/

For interesting winter sports pictures in Harbin check out:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisfick/sets/72157624662225077/